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| techtalk:evo:elec01 [2022/09/28 05:11] – [Testing for Proper Grounds] ixl2relax | techtalk:evo:elec01 [2024/11/07 07:05] (current) – [Grounding is Critical] ixl2relax | ||
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| ====== ELECTRICAL BASICS ====== | ====== ELECTRICAL BASICS ====== | ||
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| + | **Power Distribution** is discussed in the <font 18px> | ||
| The Reference Section also has related information: | The Reference Section also has related information: | ||
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| * From Keyswitch to Starter Relay | * From Keyswitch to Starter Relay | ||
| * Output of Starter Relay to Starter Solenoid | * Output of Starter Relay to Starter Solenoid | ||
| - | * Output of Voltage Regulator to Main Circuit Breaker ((http:// | + | * Output of Voltage Regulator to Main Circuit Breaker ((https://www.xlforum.net/ |
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| * Main 50a CB to Keyswitch | * Main 50a CB to Keyswitch | ||
| - | In a [[http:// | + | In a [[https://www.xlforum.net/ |
| - | {{: | + | {{: |
| \\ | \\ | ||
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| **[[https:// | **[[https:// | ||
| - | Contributed by Oldrump1 from the XLForum.net ((http:// | + | Contributed by Oldrump1 from the XLForum.net ((https://www.xlforum.net/ |
| **Deutsch Connectors** | **Deutsch Connectors** | ||
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| \\ | \\ | ||
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| - | Here's an [[http:// | + | Here's an [[https://www.xlforum.net/ |
| For Multi-Lock Connectors, here's an animation of Removing the Wire From the Connector: | For Multi-Lock Connectors, here's an animation of Removing the Wire From the Connector: | ||
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| The large Negative Battery Cable on the early models went to rear motor mount. Later, it was moved to the backside of the Primary cavity on the crankcase near the Starter Motor. | The large Negative Battery Cable on the early models went to rear motor mount. Later, it was moved to the backside of the Primary cavity on the crankcase near the Starter Motor. | ||
| - | "I was checking the voltage at the battery against the voltage at the starter, at first it was the same. I moved the bike to get to the other side and double checked the voltage and it dropped significantly. I nudge the battery once and watched the voltage go to zero! I removed the positive lead and it appeared fine on the outside. One good pull on both ends and the end to the starter and about 2" of copper strands slid out from the insulating jacketing", | + | "I was checking the voltage at the battery against the voltage at the starter, at first it was the same. I moved the bike to get to the other side and double checked the voltage and it dropped significantly. I nudge the battery once and watched the voltage go to zero! I removed the positive lead and it appeared fine on the outside. One good pull on both ends and the end to the starter and about 2" of copper strands slid out from the insulating jacketing", |
| **To check the battery cables** - PULL HARD on both ends of both the positive and the negative cables where they mount to the battery and to the engine. There should be no looseness to the cable at the connector junction. Corrosion in the connectors and the wire itself can be hidden from your casual examination yet will still cause severe loss in current capability. Therefore, PULL HARD to be sure they are solid. | **To check the battery cables** - PULL HARD on both ends of both the positive and the negative cables where they mount to the battery and to the engine. There should be no looseness to the cable at the connector junction. Corrosion in the connectors and the wire itself can be hidden from your casual examination yet will still cause severe loss in current capability. Therefore, PULL HARD to be sure they are solid. | ||
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| Then use your voltmeter (multimeter, | Then use your voltmeter (multimeter, | ||
| - | {{: | + | {{: |
| - | As you can see in the pictures above, if the connections are not tight even the posts can melt due to high current arcing. In addition to tightening the bolts, you can physically restrain the connectors with a zip tie around the battery post. With proper placement, even the rubber boots can be put back in place. | + | As you can see in the pictures above, if the connections are not tight even the posts can melt due to high current arcing. The operational vibrations often loosen bolts of all sorts on the bike, including the battery cables. In addition to tightening the bolts, you can physically restrain the connectors with a zip tie around the battery post. With proper placement, even the rubber boots can be put back in place. |
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| ===== Battery Voltage Readings ===== | ===== Battery Voltage Readings ===== | ||
| - | From the XLForum.net ((sportsterdoc of the XLFOUM | + | From the XLForum.net ((from sportsterdoc of the XLFOUM |
| Whenever there is a problem that may even remotely be electrical, it is important to know the quality of power with which you are operating. This is why you should have a volt-ohm meter (DVM/ | Whenever there is a problem that may even remotely be electrical, it is important to know the quality of power with which you are operating. This is why you should have a volt-ohm meter (DVM/ | ||
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| There could be as many as a dozen points on the frame used for grounding other devices. The front turn signals (on the handlebars) were grounded thru a connecting strap between the fork riser bolts & the triple tree. | There could be as many as a dozen points on the frame used for grounding other devices. The front turn signals (on the handlebars) were grounded thru a connecting strap between the fork riser bolts & the triple tree. | ||
| - | {{: | + | {{: |
| **Beginning in 1994**, the wiring harness itself began to carry ground wires to various components. The wiring harness by then consisted of many separate power wires to multiple locations, with a number of circuit breakers protecting the various circuits from overload. | **Beginning in 1994**, the wiring harness itself began to carry ground wires to various components. The wiring harness by then consisted of many separate power wires to multiple locations, with a number of circuit breakers protecting the various circuits from overload. | ||
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| **The battery ground cable and the common wiring harness ground wires connect to the engine**. Up through 2003, the ground wires connected onto the upper left (or right) rear engine mounting bolt. After the bolt & nut secured the engine to the frame, the battery & harness cables are placed onto the extended bolt and a lock nut is then used on the same bolt - this secures the cables to the engine & frame. There were still devices that grounded thru the frame (back to the battery), such as the horn, the oil pressure indicator switch and the neutral indicator switch. | **The battery ground cable and the common wiring harness ground wires connect to the engine**. Up through 2003, the ground wires connected onto the upper left (or right) rear engine mounting bolt. After the bolt & nut secured the engine to the frame, the battery & harness cables are placed onto the extended bolt and a lock nut is then used on the same bolt - this secures the cables to the engine & frame. There were still devices that grounded thru the frame (back to the battery), such as the horn, the oil pressure indicator switch and the neutral indicator switch. | ||
| - | {{: | + | {{: |
| **Beginning in 2004**, the Rubbermount models have the wiring harness grounds collected to a single point on the engine called the **Powertrain Ground Point**. Located near the starter motor, this PGP is a dual-threaded stud mounted horizontally to the engine case with the ground wires from the wiring harness attached by a nut. | **Beginning in 2004**, the Rubbermount models have the wiring harness grounds collected to a single point on the engine called the **Powertrain Ground Point**. Located near the starter motor, this PGP is a dual-threaded stud mounted horizontally to the engine case with the ground wires from the wiring harness attached by a nut. | ||
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| If a bike of these model years experiences erratic electrical problems, be sure to remove this stud and thoroughly clean the female threads on the engine. Then, clean the stud threads on both ends and __apply a copper-based antiseize compound on reassembly__ to provide the best electical conductivity and minimize future corrosion. | If a bike of these model years experiences erratic electrical problems, be sure to remove this stud and thoroughly clean the female threads on the engine. Then, clean the stud threads on both ends and __apply a copper-based antiseize compound on reassembly__ to provide the best electical conductivity and minimize future corrosion. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Some folks have moved the Battery Ground Cable off the vertical stud and placed that on the other stud which is located horizontally on the top of the crankcase at the Primary Cover. This stud is less likely to have the corrosion problem. This move can be done as a solution or as a preventative action. | ||
| Another point that must not be overlooked is the **grounding strap** that attaches between the engine and the frame. It is located in parallel with the torsion tie bar UNDER THE REAR OF THE ENGINE. Remove the strap and thoroughly clean both connecting points and reassemble with copper-based antiseize compound as suggested above. | Another point that must not be overlooked is the **grounding strap** that attaches between the engine and the frame. It is located in parallel with the torsion tie bar UNDER THE REAR OF THE ENGINE. Remove the strap and thoroughly clean both connecting points and reassemble with copper-based antiseize compound as suggested above. | ||
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| - | Here is a link to a very long [[http:// | + | Here is a link to a very long [[https://www.xlforum.net/ |
| 2004-later has two main ground points - Engine Case Battery Ground & Power Train Ground (AKA GND1)\\ | 2004-later has two main ground points - Engine Case Battery Ground & Power Train Ground (AKA GND1)\\ | ||
| (2004-2007 may have these reversed with battery ground on primary cover & harness ground on case stud)\\ | (2004-2007 may have these reversed with battery ground on primary cover & harness ground on case stud)\\ | ||
| - | {{techtalk: | + | {{techtalk: |
| There is an Engine-to-Frame Grounding Strap under the rear of the engine\\ | There is an Engine-to-Frame Grounding Strap under the rear of the engine\\ | ||
| - | {{techtalk: | + | {{techtalk: |
| ===== Testing for Proper Grounds ===== | ===== Testing for Proper Grounds ===== | ||
