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techtalk:evo:elec02 [2023/03/09 07:00] – [Circuit Breakers & Fuses] ixl2relaxtechtalk:evo:elec02 [2025/06/24 09:36] (current) – [Relays] ixl2relax
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-Note: Most people think of electricity in regards to voltage (as power), with power flowing from positive to negative to complete the circuit. For that reason, this explanation ignores the scientific facts of actual electron flow when conceptualizing the charging process, relationships and power distribution. This description includes the concept that power flows from the most positive source to the lesser positive connection (sometimes thru various devices) and eventually to the negative, ground, point. Voltages are typical with exact values varying under differing circumstances. The diagram is representative of a typical system and not exact for a specific Sportster model. Although later models have a more complicated distribution scheme, the charging components and operation are the same for all models with alternators (Stator/Rotor). [[techtalk:evo:elec08|Some model wiring diagrams]] are in the Sportsterpedia. Refer to your FSM for detailed wiring diagrams, procedures & tests for your specific model.+| Note: Most people think of electricity in regards to voltage (as power), with power flowing from positive to negative to complete the circuit. For that reason, this explanation ignores the scientific facts of actual electron flow when conceptualizing the charging process, relationships and power distribution. This description includes the concept that power flows from the most positive source to the lesser positive connection (sometimes thru various devices) and eventually to the negative, ground, point. Voltages are typical (such as 12v) with exact values varying under differing circumstances.\\ \\ The overview diagram is representative of a typical system and not exact for a specific Sportster model. Although later models have a more complicated distribution scheme, the charging components and operation are functionally the same for all models with alternators (Stator/Rotor). [[techtalk:evo:elec08|Some model wiring diagrams]] are in the Sportsterpedia. Refer to your FSM for detailed wiring diagrams, procedures & tests for your specific model. |
  
  
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 A fully charged, good battery, with no load, will show 12.7v - 13v DC when measured on a multimeter. Under light load the battery will read 12.5v and under heavy load (starting the engine) it will read 10.5v or more. The achieved voltage output of the Battery and/or Regulator, under load, will vary according to the existing charge level of the battery, load of the bike circuitry and the Stator output from engine RPMs. A fully charged, good battery, with no load, will show 12.7v - 13v DC when measured on a multimeter. Under light load the battery will read 12.5v and under heavy load (starting the engine) it will read 10.5v or more. The achieved voltage output of the Battery and/or Regulator, under load, will vary according to the existing charge level of the battery, load of the bike circuitry and the Stator output from engine RPMs.
  
-When the engine is running, the Rotor magnets rotate around the coils of the Stator, producing an alternating current (AC) output. This AC output is fed to the Voltage Regulator (VR) which converts the AC to Direct Current (DC) and limits (regulates) the voltage level of it's DC output.+When the engine is running, the Rotor magnets rotate around the coils of the Stator, producing an alternating current (AC) output. This AC output is fed to the Voltage Regulator (VR) which converts the AC to Direct Current (DC) and limits (regulates) the voltage level of it's DC output. Typical, regulated, charging voltage is 14.5v (+/-.2v) to the battery & system when the battery is fully charged.
  
 **Distribution** **Distribution**
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 On most Sportster models, power from the battery positive terminal is sent to the high current terminal of the Starter/Solenoid using heavy gauge wire (for maximum power during starting) and another, lighter gauge, wire from the battery positive terminal is sent to the Main Circuit Breaker. However, for some models the wiring was slightly different. There was still a heavy gauge wire to the Starter/Solenoid terminal, but then the lighter gauge wire ran from the Starter/Solenoid terminal to feed power to the Main CB. In either case, the Main CB is (essentially) getting power directly from the battery with no other devices interrupting that flow. On most Sportster models, power from the battery positive terminal is sent to the high current terminal of the Starter/Solenoid using heavy gauge wire (for maximum power during starting) and another, lighter gauge, wire from the battery positive terminal is sent to the Main Circuit Breaker. However, for some models the wiring was slightly different. There was still a heavy gauge wire to the Starter/Solenoid terminal, but then the lighter gauge wire ran from the Starter/Solenoid terminal to feed power to the Main CB. In either case, the Main CB is (essentially) getting power directly from the battery with no other devices interrupting that flow.
  
-The function of the Main Circuit Breaker is to protect most of the electrical wiring. The high current wire from the battery to the Starter/Solenoid cannot be protected from ground shorts. For this reason, the battery should be disconnected when working on the electrical system of the bike to prevent accidental shorts.+The function of the Main Circuit Breaker is to protect most of the electrical wiring. The high current wire from the battery to the Starter/Solenoid cannot be protected from ground shorts. For this reason, **__the battery should be disconnected when working on the                                                                                                                                                                                 electrical system of the bike to prevent accidental shorts.__** Obviously, you need the battery connected when doing voltage tests. In that case, be EXTREMELY CAREFUL not to create any shorts.
  
-The Main Circuit Breaker prevents shorts from connected devices and in the electrical wiring from drawing more than 30 Amps of power from the battery, which is capable of supplying more than 200 Amps. Under a dead short condition, the Main CB will break the connection, automatically reset and break the connection again if the short remains. This will continuously repeat making a clicking sound as the CB breaks and remakes connections. If using a fuse, it will simply melt, then remelt another fuse if the short remains when replacing the fuse.+The Main Circuit Breaker prevents shorts (from connected devices and in the electrical wiring) from drawing more than 30 Amps of power from the battery (which is capable of supplying more than 200 Amps). Under a dead short condition, the Main CB will break the connection, automatically reset (after a brief period) and break the connection again if the short remains. This will continuously repeat making a clicking sound as the CB breaks and remakes connections. If using a fuse, it will simply melt, then remelt the replacement fuse if the short remains.
  
 Many circuit breakers have Copper & Silver colored terminals to identify the typical connection for power input (Copper for incoming Battery power) and the load (Silver for outgoing to the electrical circuits). When a CB has color identified terminals, the Copper Terminal is internally designed to be safer than the Silver Terminal in case of an internal failure of the CB. Many circuit breakers have Copper & Silver colored terminals to identify the typical connection for power input (Copper for incoming Battery power) and the load (Silver for outgoing to the electrical circuits). When a CB has color identified terminals, the Copper Terminal is internally designed to be safer than the Silver Terminal in case of an internal failure of the CB.
  
-Whether using autoreset Circuit Breakers or Fuses, the function and purpose is the same - to protect the wiring from overloads. As far as conductivity, Fuses & Circuit Breakers function just as if they were a simple piece of wire. The only difference is that they are rated for a certain current load and then disconnect if too much current runs thru them. There are no internal parts to keep voltage from flowing either direction.+Whether using autoreset Circuit Breakers or Fuses, the function and purpose is the same - to protect the wiring from overloads. As far as conductivity, **Fuses & Circuit Breakers function just as if they were a simple piece of wire.** The only difference is that they are rated for a certain current load and then disconnect if too much current runs thru them. There are no internal parts to keep voltage from flowing either direction.
  
-The number of circuits that are created and protected by fuses varies by model. The four main circuits are: Accessory, Ignition, Lights & Instruments. In later models, Battery & ECM fuses were added to supply constant power to computerized modules even when the keyswitch is OFF.+The number of separate circuits that are created and protected by individual fuses varies by model. The four main circuits are: Accessory, Ignition, Lights & Instruments. In later models, Battery & ECM fuses were added to supply constant power to computerized modules even when the keyswitch is OFF.
  
-The Keyswitch has two active positions - Accessory & Ignition. The accessory position provides power for a small subset of electrical devices that may need to operate without the engine running, like the brake light & flashers, in an emergency breakdown. The ignition position operates the remaining operational electrical circuits to power all other devices. When the keyswitch is in the Ignition position, the accessory connection is still active and still feeding power thru the accessory circuit breaker. Remember, when the battery & main CB (or Main Fuse) is connected, the Keyswitch is getting power from the battery, even when the Keyswitch is in the OFF position. An internal short in the Keyswitch may still occur (often from too many things hanging on the key ring) and will pop the CB.+The Keyswitch has two active positions - Accessory & Ignition (see diagram). The accessory position (A) provides power for a small subset of electrical devices that may need to operate without the engine running, like the brake light & flashers, in an emergency breakdown. The ignition position (I) operates the remaining operational electrical circuits to power all other devices. The incoming power connection is identified as (B) for battery. When the keyswitch is in the Ignition position, the accessory connection is still active and still feeding power thru the accessory circuit breaker. Remember, when the battery & main CB (or Main Fuse) is connected, the Keyswitch is getting power from the battery, even when the Keyswitch is in the OFF position (not sending power to the rest of the circuitry). An internal short in the Keyswitch may still occur, popping the CB. Sometimes too many things hanging on the key ring, blowing in the wind, will overstress the keyswitch and cause internal failures.
  
 **Functioning** **Functioning**
  
-The Main CB has the battery positive voltage connected on the input side (Copper Terminal) and the Voltage Regulator (VR) positive output voltage connected on the output side (Silver Terminal). The output side of the Main Circuit Breaker (where the VR is connected) also is wired to the input connection of the Keyswitch.+The Main CB has the battery positive voltage connected on the input side (Copper Terminal) and the Voltage Regulator (VR) positive output voltage connected on the output side (Silver Terminal). The output side of the Main Circuit Breaker (where the VR is connected) also is wired to the input connection of the Keyswitch. This allows either the battery or VR to supply the operatonal power for the bike.
  
 **Starting the Engine:** Since the charging system (Stator & VR) does not produce any power until the engine is running, we need the battery to get the engine running. With the keyswitch on, power flows out of the battery, into the Copper terminal of the Main CB, out of the Silver terminal of the Main CB, thru the keyswitch, then thru the Ignition CB to the RUN switch. Power, thru the Ignition CB, is also sent to the controlled terminals of the Starter Relay. With the RUN switch ON, pressing the starter button will activate the Starter Relay to send battery power to activate the starter/solenoid. **Starting the Engine:** Since the charging system (Stator & VR) does not produce any power until the engine is running, we need the battery to get the engine running. With the keyswitch on, power flows out of the battery, into the Copper terminal of the Main CB, out of the Silver terminal of the Main CB, thru the keyswitch, then thru the Ignition CB to the RUN switch. Power, thru the Ignition CB, is also sent to the controlled terminals of the Starter Relay. With the RUN switch ON, pressing the starter button will activate the Starter Relay to send battery power to activate the starter/solenoid.
  
-**ReCharging the Battery:** Once the engine fires and is running, now the Voltage Regulator is producing power (voltage) that is more than the battery voltage (especially since the battery just used power to operate the starter motor). So, power will now flow out of the VR, into the Silver terminal of the CB, out of the Copper terminal of the CB, to the battery. This is how the Stator & VR now recharges the battery back to full power. The power flows from the higher VR voltage back into the lower powered battery.+**ReCharging the Battery:** Once the engine fires and is running, now the Voltage Regulator (VR) is producing power (voltage) that is more than the battery voltage (especially since the battery just used power to operate the starter motor). So, power will flow out of the VR, into the Silver terminal of the CB, out of the Copper terminal of the CB, to the battery. This is how the Stator & VR now recharges the battery back to full power. The power flows from the higher VR voltage back into the lower powered battery.
  
-At the same time, when the engine is running and the VR is charging the battery, it also produces enough power to operate the rest of the electrical needs of the motorcycle. This VR power now takes over from the battery (which was used when the bike wasn't running) and is sent thru the keyswitch to be distributed thru the individualized CBs to the ignition circuit, lights circuit, accessories circuit, etc.+**At the same time**, when the engine is running and the VR is charging the battery, the VR also provides enough power to operate the rest of the electrical needs of the motorcycle. This VR power now takes over from the battery (which was used when the bike wasn't running) and is sent thru the keyswitch to be distributed thru the individualized CBs to the ignition circuit, lights circuit, accessories circuit, etc.
  
 You should notice that in starting the engine, power flows one way thru the Main CB (Copper to Silver) and in recharging the battery the power will flow the opposite direction thru the CB (Silver to Copper). The circuit breaker, when not overloaded, functions as a simple piece of wire, allowing power flow either direction. Power will flow in the direction needed to equalize the voltage or feed the load, from high to low. You should notice that in starting the engine, power flows one way thru the Main CB (Copper to Silver) and in recharging the battery the power will flow the opposite direction thru the CB (Silver to Copper). The circuit breaker, when not overloaded, functions as a simple piece of wire, allowing power flow either direction. Power will flow in the direction needed to equalize the voltage or feed the load, from high to low.
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 The charging function operates just like when you put an external charger on the battery. The positive wire on the charger is connected to the positive post on the battery (and negative to negative, grounded). Then power will flow from the charger to the battery to raise the voltage of the stored power in the battery. The charging function operates just like when you put an external charger on the battery. The positive wire on the charger is connected to the positive post on the battery (and negative to negative, grounded). Then power will flow from the charger to the battery to raise the voltage of the stored power in the battery.
  
-Be sure that the battery wire is connected on one side of the Main CB while the VR & Keyswitch are connected on the other side. This arrangement prevents destructively high current flow (and potential fire) on the wiring in case the VR or Keyswitch develops an internal failure, like a short circuit to ground. Note that some HD wiring diagrams incorrectly show the VR connected to the battery side of the CB. If the bike is actualy wired that way from the factory, it should, for safety, be changed to the proper connection location.((HD mentions this in a Service Bulletin))+Be sure that the battery wire is connected on one side of the Main CB while the VR & Keyswitch are connected on the other side. This arrangement prevents destructively high current flow (and potential fire) on the wiring in case the VR or Keyswitch develops an internal failure, like a short circuit to ground. Note that a few HD wiring diagrams incorrectly showed the VR connected to the battery side of the CB. If the bike you have is actualy wired that way from the factory, it should, for safety, be changed to the proper connection location.((HD mentions this in a Service Bulletin))
  
-When the battery is fully charged, it may have a voltage higher than expected. After a one hour resting period is the time to test the voltage to determine the ability of the battery to hold a charge. At that time it should still retain 12.7v - 13v DC for a full charge.+After starting the bike, the charging system will take time to re-charge the battery. If you have had difficulty starting the bike or the battery has not been used or charged for quite some time, it may not be fully charged until the bike has been ridden several hours. 
 + 
 +When the battery is fully charged (externally or ridden), it may have a voltage higher than expected just afterward. It is important to rest the battery for one hour after the charging is complete. This one hour 'rest period' allows the battery voltage to stabilize in the battery cells. __After the one hour rest period, if the battery is capable of holding a full charge, measuring the battery voltage should still show it at 12.7v - 13v DC. This is a full charge condition.__
  
 \\ \\
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 If the rated amperage for the CB is exceeded, the strip will be overheated, causing it to bend away from the internal contact, thereby opening the circuit and removing the current flow. Once the bi-metallic strip has cooled sufficiently, it will return from its heated position and once again make contact. This will allow the current to begin flowing again. If the circuit is still drawing excessive current, the CB will repeat the open & close cycling until the current level is reduced below the current rating and no longer causing the bi-metallic strip to overheat. If the rated amperage for the CB is exceeded, the strip will be overheated, causing it to bend away from the internal contact, thereby opening the circuit and removing the current flow. Once the bi-metallic strip has cooled sufficiently, it will return from its heated position and once again make contact. This will allow the current to begin flowing again. If the circuit is still drawing excessive current, the CB will repeat the open & close cycling until the current level is reduced below the current rating and no longer causing the bi-metallic strip to overheat.
  
-The circuit breakers have copper (incoming power) and silver (outgoing power) colored terminals. The copper terminal of the Main Circuit Breaker is the input side for the battery. ((Ironmick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1378363&page=3)) The keyswitch is attached to the output side, the silver terminal. Also, the wire from the Voltage Regulator (VR) attaches on the (silver) output terminal, then passes current thru the circuit breaker in reverse direction to charge the battery. CAUTION: You should NOT run the output wire from the Voltage Regulator on the copper terminal of the circuit breaker, nor directly to the battery positive terminal, even if the original wiring was connected that way. Connecting in that way would allow a failing VR to short the battery to ground, pulling hundreds of amps of current from the battery and potentially causing a fire.+The circuit breakers have copper (incoming power) and silver (outgoing power) colored terminals. The copper terminal of the Main Circuit Breaker is the input side for the battery. ((Ironmick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/130580-the-dreadful-electrical/page3?t=1378363&page=3)) The keyswitch is attached to the output side, the silver terminal. Also, the wire from the Voltage Regulator (VR) attaches on the (silver) output terminal, then passes current thru the circuit breaker in reverse direction to charge the battery. CAUTION: You should NOT run the output wire from the Voltage Regulator on the copper terminal of the circuit breaker, nor directly to the battery positive terminal, even if the original wiring was connected that way. Connecting in that way would allow a failing VR to short the battery to ground, pulling hundreds of amps of current from the battery and potentially causing a fire.
  
 Although very reliable, over time & usage, the CB may no longer function at the rated current, requiring replacement of the Circuit Breaker. Although very reliable, over time & usage, the CB may no longer function at the rated current, requiring replacement of the Circuit Breaker.
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   * All 1986 to 1990 models have 4 circuit breakers mounted on the front side of the rear fender under the seat. ((Clymer 1986-2003 HD Xl/XLH Sportster Service Manual pg 457))   * All 1986 to 1990 models have 4 circuit breakers mounted on the front side of the rear fender under the seat. ((Clymer 1986-2003 HD Xl/XLH Sportster Service Manual pg 457))
   * Circuit Breakers (CB) - Under Seat - Automatically Resettable - Ring Lugs for wiring   * Circuit Breakers (CB) - Under Seat - Automatically Resettable - Ring Lugs for wiring
-    * 30A - Main Circuit Breaker+    * 30A - Main Circuit Breaker - Bolt Stud Type
   * Keyswitch    * Keyswitch 
     * 'Ignition' position (White Wire) runs to Ignition & Accessories CBs     * 'Ignition' position (White Wire) runs to Ignition & Accessories CBs
     * 'Lights' position (Green Wire) runs to Lights CB     * 'Lights' position (Green Wire) runs to Lights CB
     * Both Keyswitch positions feed all CBs because of jumper between Ig & L at Keyswitch     * Both Keyswitch positions feed all CBs because of jumper between Ig & L at Keyswitch
-  * Circuit Breaker Ratings+  * Circuit Breaker Ratings - Bolt Stud Type
     * 15A - Lights CB     * 15A - Lights CB
     * 15A - Ignition CB     * 15A - Ignition CB
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 {{ :common:space100x5px.jpg?200|}}{{ :techtalk:evo:elec:86-circuitbreakers-juzyhd.jpg?400|}} {{ :common:space100x5px.jpg?200|}}{{ :techtalk:evo:elec:86-circuitbreakers-juzyhd.jpg?400|}}
  
-**(1991-1993)** ((Pic from juzyHD at http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2072379))+**(1991-1993)** ((Pic from juzyHD at https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-styles/sportster-motorcycle-project/195941-made-some-changes-to-my-bike?t=2072379))
   * All 1991 to 1993 models have 4 circuit breakers mounted on the front side of the rear fender under the seat. ((Clymer 1986-2003 HD Xl/XLH Sportster Service Manual pg 457))   * All 1991 to 1993 models have 4 circuit breakers mounted on the front side of the rear fender under the seat. ((Clymer 1986-2003 HD Xl/XLH Sportster Service Manual pg 457))
   * Circuit Breakers (CB) - Under Seat - Automatically Resettable - Ring Lugs for wiring   * Circuit Breakers (CB) - Under Seat - Automatically Resettable - Ring Lugs for wiring
-    * 30A - Main Circuit Breaker+    * 30A - Main Circuit Breaker - Bolt Stud Type
   * Keyswitch   * Keyswitch
     * 'Ignition' position (White Wire) runs to Ignition & Accessories CBs     * 'Ignition' position (White Wire) runs to Ignition & Accessories CBs
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     * Both Keyswitch positions power all CBs because of a buss bar at the CBs (or a jumper between Ig & L at Keyswitch)     * Both Keyswitch positions power all CBs because of a buss bar at the CBs (or a jumper between Ig & L at Keyswitch)
     * The 4-way Flashers are activated from either key position by pressing both turn signal switches at the same time - Flashers will operate this way until the battery is dead or the keyswitch is turned off - Key cannot be removed     * The 4-way Flashers are activated from either key position by pressing both turn signal switches at the same time - Flashers will operate this way until the battery is dead or the keyswitch is turned off - Key cannot be removed
-  * Circuit Breaker Ratings+  * Circuit Breaker Ratings - Bolt Stud Type
     * 15A - Lights CB     * 15A - Lights CB
     * 15A - Ignition CB     * 15A - Ignition CB
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   * All 1994 to 1997 models have 5 circuit breakers mounted under the seat. Ignition, instruments, lights and accessories are mounted on the circuit breaker block installed in the electrical bracket under the seat. The main circuit breaker is mounted on the electrical bracket on the right side of the circuit breaker block.((Clymer 1986-2003 HD Xl/XLH Sportster Service Manual pg 457))    * All 1994 to 1997 models have 5 circuit breakers mounted under the seat. Ignition, instruments, lights and accessories are mounted on the circuit breaker block installed in the electrical bracket under the seat. The main circuit breaker is mounted on the electrical bracket on the right side of the circuit breaker block.((Clymer 1986-2003 HD Xl/XLH Sportster Service Manual pg 457)) 
   * Circuit Breakers (CB) - Automatically Resettable   * Circuit Breakers (CB) - Automatically Resettable
-    * 50A - Main Circuit Breaker (1994-1996) +    * 50A - Main Circuit Breaker (1994-1996) - Bolt Stud Type 
-    * 30A - Main Circuit Breaker (1997)+    * 30A - Main Circuit Breaker (1997) - Bolt Stud Type
   * Keyswitch   * Keyswitch
     * 'Accessory' position allows 4-way Flasher without other Lights active     * 'Accessory' position allows 4-way Flasher without other Lights active
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     * 'Ignition' position (White Wire) runs to Ignition, Instruments and Lights CBs     * 'Ignition' position (White Wire) runs to Ignition, Instruments and Lights CBs
     * The 4-way Flashers are activated from the 'Accessory' position by pressing both turn signal switches at the same time - Flashers will operate this way until the battery is dead or the keyswitch is turned off - Key can be removed in Acc position     * The 4-way Flashers are activated from the 'Accessory' position by pressing both turn signal switches at the same time - Flashers will operate this way until the battery is dead or the keyswitch is turned off - Key can be removed in Acc position
-  * Circuit Breaker Ratings+  * Circuit Breaker Ratings - Socket Blade Type
     * 15A - Ignition CB     * 15A - Ignition CB
     * 10A - Instruments CB     * 10A - Instruments CB
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 {{ :common:space100x5px.jpg?200|}}{{ :techtalk:evo:elec:98-03-fuseblock-triangle.jpg?200|}}{{ :techtalk:evo:elec:98-03-fuseblock.jpg?200|}} {{ :common:space100x5px.jpg?200|}}{{ :techtalk:evo:elec:98-03-fuseblock-triangle.jpg?200|}}{{ :techtalk:evo:elec:98-03-fuseblock.jpg?200|}}
-**(1998-2003)** ((Pics by Shu of the XLForum - http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=805221 - annotated by IXL2Relax))+**(1998-2003)** ((Pics by Shu of the XLForum - https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-electrical/sportster-motorcycle-electrical-and-ignition/96048-bike-not-starting?t=805221 - annotated by IXL2Relax))
  
   * These models have a Main Circuit Breaker, 4 Fuses, the Starter Relay and the Data Link Connector (1200S Only) located under left-side triangle cover to rear of battery.   * These models have a Main Circuit Breaker, 4 Fuses, the Starter Relay and the Data Link Connector (1200S Only) located under left-side triangle cover to rear of battery.
   * Fuses - Socketed and individually insertable   * Fuses - Socketed and individually insertable
-    * 30A - Main Circuit Breaker+    * 30A - Main Circuit Breaker - Bolt Stud Type
   * Keyswitch   * Keyswitch
     * 'Accessory' position allows 4-way Flasher without other Lights active (also active with Ignition position){{ :common:space100x5px.jpg?200|}}{{ :techtalk:evo:elec:98-03-eleccaddy-triangle.jpg?300|}}     * 'Accessory' position allows 4-way Flasher without other Lights active (also active with Ignition position){{ :common:space100x5px.jpg?200|}}{{ :techtalk:evo:elec:98-03-eleccaddy-triangle.jpg?300|}}
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 **(2004-2006)** **(2004-2006)**
   * Fuses - Socketed and individually insertable - Fuse Panel under left side panel behind battery   * Fuses - Socketed and individually insertable - Fuse Panel under left side panel behind battery
-    * 30A - MaxiFuse - Socketed and insertable - At Battery+    * 30A - MaxiFuse - Socketed and insertable - By Battery
   * Keyswitch   * Keyswitch
     * 'Accessory' position (Red/Green Wire) also active in Ignition position     * 'Accessory' position (Red/Green Wire) also active in Ignition position
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     * The 4-way Flashers are activated from the 'Ignition' position (with the RUN switch on) by pressing the triangle switch above the starter switch - The key can then be turned off & removed - Flashers will operate for up to 2 hours, then automatically shutdown     * The 4-way Flashers are activated from the 'Ignition' position (with the RUN switch on) by pressing the triangle switch above the starter switch - The key can then be turned off & removed - Flashers will operate for up to 2 hours, then automatically shutdown
   * Fuse Ratings   * Fuse Ratings
-    * 10A - Battery Fuse - ATO-type (72340-94) +    * 10A - Battery Fuse - ATO-type (72340-94) - See Footnote for document conflicts ((Conflicting Battery Fuse Info - 2014-2017 Schematics show as 15A fuse, but Operation Manuals & Parts Manuals specify 10A - All documents for 2018-2022 show the Battery Fuse as 10A))
-    * - - Conflicting Battery Fuse Info - 2014-2017 Schematics show as 15A fuse, but Operation Manuals & Parts Manuals specify 10A +
-    * - - - - All documents for 2018-2022 show the Battery Fuse as 10A+
     * 15A - P&A Fuse - ATO-type (72347-94)     * 15A - P&A Fuse - ATO-type (72347-94)
  
 +\\
  
- +|  \\ \\ \\ **CLICK ON ANY OF THESE IMAGES**\\ **TO VIEW A LARGER VERSION.**  | {{:techtalk:evo:elec:fuses-1994-97-charging.jpg?400|}} | 
-((Contributed to Sportsterpedia by IXL2Relax of the XLFORUM.net))+| {{:techtalk:evo:elec:fuses-1998-2003-charging.jpg?400|}} | {{:techtalk:evo:elec:fuses-2004-06-charging.jpg?400|}} | 
 +| {{:techtalk:evo:elec:fuses-2007-09.jpg?400|}} | {{:techtalk:evo:elec:fuses-2010-13.jpg?400|}} |
  
 \\ \\
  
-**Fuse Part Number Quick Reference Guide**. ((HD Tech Tip (TT-059) sheet dated June 13,2005)) \\+**Circuit Breaker / Fuse Part Number Quick Reference Guide**\\ 
 + 
 +|  **Circuit Breakers**  ||| |  **Mini Type Fuse**  || |  **ATO Type Fuse**  ||   
 +|10 Amp| Socket Blade | 74588-94 | | Red | 72462-00 | | Red | 72340-94 | 
 +|15 Amp| Socket Blade | 74587-94 | | Blue | 72330-95 | | LtBlue | 72347-94 | 
 +|15 Amp| Bolt Stud | 74589-73 | | |  **Maxi Type Fuse**  |||| 
 +|30 Amp| Bolt Stud | 74599-77B | | | 30 Amp | Green || 72318-04 | 
 +|50 Amp| Bolt Stud | 74600-94 | | | 40 Amp | Orange || 72314-01 |
  
-|  ATO Type  |||  Mini Type  |||  Maxi Type  ||| +{{:techtalk:evo:elec:fuses-mini-ato-maxi.jpg?450|}}
-|1 Amp|Charcoal|72300-89|2 Amp|Gray|54305-98|30 Amp|Green|72318-04| +
-|3 Amp|Violet|72301-89|5 Amp|Lt. Tan|72331-95|40 Amp|Orange|72314-01| +
-|5 Amp|Tan|72302-89|10 Amp|Red|72462-00| +
-|7.5 Amp|Brown|72388-05|15 Amp|Blue|72330-95| +
-|10 Amp|Red|72340-94|20 Amp|Yellow|72345-02| +
-|15 Amp|Lt. Blue|72347-94| +
-|40 Amp|Orange|72371-95|+
  
 \\ \\
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 (In the diagrams, S=Source & is B+ from the Battery or thru Keyswitch. L=Load & goes to the Starter Solenoid.)\\ (In the diagrams, S=Source & is B+ from the Battery or thru Keyswitch. L=Load & goes to the Starter Solenoid.)\\
 (Be sure to see the note at the end of this section regarding diodes in relays)\\ (Be sure to see the note at the end of this section regarding diodes in relays)\\
 +
 +For Starter Relay function [[techtalk:evo:engctl02#starter_solenoid_function|SEE HERE]]. For System Relay function see below.
 +
  
 **(1980-1992 & Early 1993)** **(1980-1992 & Early 1993)**
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   * **NOTE:** The 2007-2009 model years have a significant history of corrosion and gunk collecting in the fuse/relay tray causing low-grade shorts and erratic electrical operation - This is especially problematic if the bike is left outside or operated in the rain. It's a good idea to check & thoroughly clean this tray at least every year (or 4 to 6 months if parked outside).   * **NOTE:** The 2007-2009 model years have a significant history of corrosion and gunk collecting in the fuse/relay tray causing low-grade shorts and erratic electrical operation - This is especially problematic if the bike is left outside or operated in the rain. It's a good idea to check & thoroughly clean this tray at least every year (or 4 to 6 months if parked outside).
   * **NOTE2:** In the UK, check for part number Durite 0-727-13.   * **NOTE2:** In the UK, check for part number Durite 0-727-13.
 +
  
 **(2010-2013)** **(2010-2013)**
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     * Standard MC-RLY9     * Standard MC-RLY9
     * (Superceded from: 31579-04)     * (Superceded from: 31579-04)
 +
  
 **(2014-on)** **(2014-on)**
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 \\ \\
  
-**NOTE: Polarity & Diodes**+**NOTES:** 
 + 
 +**System Relay Function (2007-2013)** 
 + 
 +{{:techtalk:evo:elec:relay-systemcontrol.jpg?600|}} 
 + 
 +**Polarity & Diodes**
 <blockquote> <blockquote>
   *If the originally specified relay did not have a diode, the polarity of the connections to the relay coil made no difference - the relay functioned with either connection orientation. However, when a diode is present across the coil, for reverse EMF bleed off, it is important that the polarity of the normal connection provides reverse bias on the diode and not forward bias. The positive connection must be at the bar end of the diode (the silver band) which is opposite of the way diodes are used in many other applications.   *If the originally specified relay did not have a diode, the polarity of the connections to the relay coil made no difference - the relay functioned with either connection orientation. However, when a diode is present across the coil, for reverse EMF bleed off, it is important that the polarity of the normal connection provides reverse bias on the diode and not forward bias. The positive connection must be at the bar end of the diode (the silver band) which is opposite of the way diodes are used in many other applications.
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     *If replacing a non-diode relay (original design) with a diode-version, it would be worthwhile double-checking the polarity of the connection to the relay coil to be sure it is compatible with the diode orientation. Where a diode is used, the positive power should reverse bias the diode when normally activated - this allows the bleed off of EMF energy in the reverse direction when the power is removed.     *If replacing a non-diode relay (original design) with a diode-version, it would be worthwhile double-checking the polarity of the connection to the relay coil to be sure it is compatible with the diode orientation. Where a diode is used, the positive power should reverse bias the diode when normally activated - this allows the bleed off of EMF energy in the reverse direction when the power is removed.
  
-    *In the diagrams above I have included the standard HD connections polarity, as identified in the HD manuals & wiring diagrams, to allow comparison of that wiring to any proposed alternative relay. It appears to me, that many of the relays that include a diode provide positive power on the (86) contact while HD has wired (1991-1993 & 2010-2013) some of their relays with positive power on the (85) contact. Beware: I have not checked every alternative relay listed in the Sportsterpedia for this issue.+    *In the diagrams above I have included the standard HD connections polarity, as identified in the HD manuals & wiring diagrams, to allow comparison of that wiring to any proposed alternative relay. It appears to me, that many of the relays that include a diode provide positive power on the (86) contact while HD has wired some of their relays (1991-1993 & 2010-2013) with positive power on the (85) contact. Beware: I have not checked every alternative relay listed in the Sportsterpedia for this issue.
 </blockquote> </blockquote>
  
-(This document may be of interest: http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/hweb2.pdf)+(This document may be of interest: [[https://www.jdmfsm.info/Auto/--General--/Articles/Understanding%20Relays/hweb2.pdf|Understanding Relays]])
  
  
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 A home remedy is to use vinegar, which is a mild acid. It can be diluted in equal parts vinegar & water. You can use a toothbrush to apply on fuse/relay sockets, contacts, etc. Once clean, wash with water & dry (compressed air for crevices). Stubborn corrosion may require applying a paste of baking soda (and water). Let it soak into the corrosion and dry. Then brush & flush with water & dry with compressed air. A home remedy is to use vinegar, which is a mild acid. It can be diluted in equal parts vinegar & water. You can use a toothbrush to apply on fuse/relay sockets, contacts, etc. Once clean, wash with water & dry (compressed air for crevices). Stubborn corrosion may require applying a paste of baking soda (and water). Let it soak into the corrosion and dry. Then brush & flush with water & dry with compressed air.
  
-When the sockets or contacts are thoroughly clean & dry, apply a thin coating of dielectric grease ([[techtalk:ref:genmsr10#dielectric_grease|see here]]) to the contact surfaces, both the socket & the fuse/relay. The coating should be sufficient to protect the sufaces from air & moisture, but not oozing off onto other components.+When the sockets or contacts are thoroughly clean & dry, apply a thin coating of dielectric grease ([[techtalk:ref:genmsr17#dielectric_grease|see here]]) to the contact surfaces, both the socket & the fuse/relay. The coating should be sufficient to protect the sufaces from air & moisture, but not oozing off onto other components.
  
  
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 **Take Note:** The charging system is designed to keep the battery charged and supply power to run the bike. However, even if you disconnect the regulator from the system (and/or the stator from the regulator), the bike will run just fine on the battery alone. Without being recharged, the battery will slowly discharge (over time, depending on the actual current being drawn) to the point where the voltage will be too low to operate the igntion system and the bike will fail to run. **Take Note:** The charging system is designed to keep the battery charged and supply power to run the bike. However, even if you disconnect the regulator from the system (and/or the stator from the regulator), the bike will run just fine on the battery alone. Without being recharged, the battery will slowly discharge (over time, depending on the actual current being drawn) to the point where the voltage will be too low to operate the igntion system and the bike will fail to run.
  
-The run-time on the battery alone is surprising. If your stator or regulator fails while on a long-distance ride, you can recharge the battery (wherever possible) and then run the bike on it alone. To do so, you should minimize the current draw from unnecessary components by removing the fuses to those component circuits (such as lights) or disconnecting the devices, temporarily. Of course, running in daylight with other riders would be a safe decision in this emergency.((Sportsterpaul rode 500 miles on the battery alone - http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5759538&postcount=437))+The run-time on the battery alone is surprising. If your stator or regulator fails while on a long-distance ride, you can recharge the battery (wherever possible) and then run the bike on it alone. To do so, you should minimize the current draw from unnecessary components by removing the fuses to those component circuits (such as lights) or disconnecting the devices, temporarily. Of course, running in daylight with other riders would be a safe decision in this emergency.((Sportsterpaul rode 500 miles on the battery alone - https://www.xlforum.net/forum/general-area/organize-a-ride-out-or-find-a-riding-buddy/195543-2019-east-coast-meet-and-greet/page30?postcount=437#post4315866))
  
 \\ \\
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 It is possible for the voltage regulator output wire and the ignition sensor wires to contact the transmission cover screws and transmission case if the wires are not routed properly. Powertrain movement can cause the insulation to be rubbed through resulting in intermittent ignition, charging problems or generating of a fault code on EFI models. ((HD Tech Tip #43 dated September 1995)) It is possible for the voltage regulator output wire and the ignition sensor wires to contact the transmission cover screws and transmission case if the wires are not routed properly. Powertrain movement can cause the insulation to be rubbed through resulting in intermittent ignition, charging problems or generating of a fault code on EFI models. ((HD Tech Tip #43 dated September 1995))
  
-**CAUTION: As shown in the Charging System diagram, BE SURE the output of the voltage regulator is connected to the Keyswitch-Side of the Main Circuit Breaker or Fuse! This is a SAFETY ISSUE. Some models from the factory were wired incorrectly on the battery-side of the main circuit breaker.** ((see http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2080336 - Post#24 & #32))+**CAUTION: As shown in the Charging System diagram, BE SURE the output of the voltage regulator is connected to the Keyswitch-Side of the Main Circuit Breaker or Fuse! This is a SAFETY ISSUE. Some models from the factory were wired incorrectly on the battery-side of the main circuit breaker.** ((see https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-electrical/sportster-motorcycle-electrical-and-ignition/203144-is-this-battery-failure?t=2080336 - Post#24 & #32))
  
  
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 **Additional XLForum Links related to the charging system:**\\ **Additional XLForum Links related to the charging system:**\\
-Testing Charging System - http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=2239332\\ +Testing Charging System - https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-electrical/sportster-motorcycle-electrical-and-ignition/84152-no-charging-what-next#post1736398\\ 
-Discussion of aftermarket regulator - http://xlforum.net/forums/archive/index.php/t-1648679.html\\+Discussion of aftermarket regulator - https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-electrical/sportster-motorcycle-electrical-and-ignition/153118-shunt-vs-series-voltage-regulators\\
  
  

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