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| - | Both sides previous revisionPrevious revision |
| - | techtalk:evo:engmech02b [2019/11/14 04:55] – [Considerations Before You Begin] hippysmack |
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| + | techtalk:evo:engmech02b [2024/01/03 19:50] (current) – hippysmack |
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| ====== EVO: Engine Mechanicals - Sub-02B ====== | |
| ====== 91-99 Lifter Pin Upgrade to 00-05 Lifter Pin Screws ====== | |
| The stock pin on 91-99 engines is supported only on the outboard side of the lifter bore only. ((aswracing of the XLFORUM | |
| Therefore, it doesn' | |
| @@ Line -9,12 +9,12 @@ | |
| Zipper' | |
| It is an alternative to tapping for the threaded pins. ((steelworker of the XLFORUM | |
| That retains the stock look with the triangular cover. \\ | |
| You can also have longer pins made at your local machine shop. \\ | |
| But you still have to drill the hole longer for the extra length pins. \\ | |
| But then HD one-upped them in 2000 when they came out with the screw-in pins (18532-00) as shown below. ((aswracing of the XLFORUM | |
| Not only is it longer to provide better support like the Zippers solution, but the outboard side is positively locked in place via the threads. \\ | |
| The main thing with installing either style upgrade is to drill the hole straight. If you're off even slightly, the tappet pin may try to bind the lifter. ((aswracing of the XLFORUM | |
| It can be done with a hand drill on an assembled motor if you're careful, but it's best done in a drill press or a mill with the right case half removed. \\ | |
| Basically you just punch the hole deeper with a 3/16" drill bit, drill the outer portion only with a .201" bit and tap it to 1/ | |
| @@ Line -22,9 +22,8 @@ | |
| Anti-roll pins are designed to keep roller lifters from turning sideways during operation. \\ | |
| A roller that's turned sideways does not roll. ((NRHS Sales of the XLFORUM | |
| | 91-99 lifter pins vs 00-05 lifter pin screws ((photos by Hippysmack)) | |
| |{{: | |
| ====== Considerations Before You Begin ====== | |
| @@ Line -46,7 +45,5 @@ | |
| Factory tappet pin clearance on an 05 engine. \\ | |
| {{: | |
| Below is an example gone wrong using a scrap piece of aluminum. \\ | |
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| ===== Drilling the hole straight ===== | |
| Below are some ideas to help keep the drill bit straight through from the front to the back hole while drilling. \\ | |
| However, outside of going it alone with a hand drill and a bit, there still is a certain amount of precise required. \\ | |
| @@ Line -91,5 +87,5 @@ | |
| * It cuts center first and the fluted cutter comes in to cut the primary hole. | |
| * This helps to keep the bit from wandering and keep the hole centered throughout the cut. \\ | |
| * **Try a using a hand held 3/16" hollow sleeve as a guide**. ((IXL2Relax of the XLFORUM | |
| * You can use a hand held 3/16" sleeve with a smaller bit inside as a guide to make the initial center for the bigger 3/16" bit. | |
| * The sleeve should be a close fit thru the front hole to align with the rear hole location. | |
| @@ Line -98,6 +94,6 @@ | |
| * The center bit doesn' | |
| * Then the 3-1/6" bit is inserted (without the guide) to drill the back hole using the center hole you just made. | |
| * Cookie cutter sleeves you'd buy at the hardware store are not always flat on the end or perfectly round. ((Hippysmack of the XLFORUM | |
| * **You can tap the hole first and then center drill the back wall through a bolt**. ((bustert of the XLFORUM | |
| * Basically, you use the bolt as a sleeve. | |
| * Here are a couple videos showing this concept by bustert of the XLFORUM | |
| @@ Line -114,5 +110,5 @@ | |
| * If you used a .196" or even a .199" pre-drill, the threads would have a little less clearance to wiggle. | |
| * You'd just have to be more careful while tapping. | |
| * **You can go it alone with a hand drill**. ((Hippysmack of the XLFORUM | |
| * This is the easiest route and probably the way most would try it at home. | |
| * However, results may vary. | |
| @@ Line -126,5 +122,4 @@ | |
| ====== Installing the Screws Using a Hand Drill Only ====== | |
| First, clean the bores with solvent on a rag (Acetone used here). \\ | |
| The oiling holes coming into the bores need to be taped of so aluminum shavings don't get into them. \\ | |
| @@ Line -151,5 +146,4 @@ | |
| ===== Tapping the outboard side ===== | |
| The outside hole now has to be pre-drilled with a .201" bit for 1/ | |
| Line up the bit as straight as possible. \\ | |
| @@ Line -169,5 +163,5 @@ | |
| |{{: | |
| |Clean the area in and on top of the bore, | |
| |{{: | |
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| ====== Test Fit the Lifters ====== | |
| Test fit the lifters movement up and down with the screws installed. \\ | |
| With each pin in place, you should be able to push the lifter up from the bottom with your finger with no resistance from the pin. \\ | |
| @@ Line -196,7 +189,6 @@ | |
| |{{: | |
| ====== If the lifters lock up ====== | |
| Try running the tap back in and putting slight pressure on the tap (in this case) away from the lifter while turning to attempt to cut threads deeper on the opposite side of the lifter.\\ | |
| It worked in the pics below. Afterwards, the lifter moves up and down freely without binding with the bolt tightened. \\ | |
