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techtalk:ih:carb01g [2019/09/12 21:52] – [Sub-Documents] hippysmacktechtalk:ih:carb01g [2023/12/28 23:55] (current) – hippysmack
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-====== IH: Carburetor, Intake Manifold & Exhaust Systems - Sub-01g ======+====== IH: Carburetor, Intake Manifold & Exhaust - Sub-01G ======
 \\ \\
-===== Tillotson Carb Functions, Adjustments, Tuning =====+====== Tillotson Carb Functions, Adjustments, Tuning ====== 
 +See also in the Sportsterpedia: \\ 
 +  * [[techtalk:ih:carb01#tillotson_hd_carb_1966-1971|Tillotson Carb Basic Information]] 
 +  * [[techtalk:ih:carb01e|Tillotson Carb Identification]] 
 +  * [[techtalk:ih:carb01f|Rebuilding the Tillotson Carb]]
  
 +===== Tickler =====
 +A tickler is any device that is inserted into the bottom hole to 'massage' a little extra gas from the diaphragm. \\
 +With the advent off Ethanol, fuel seems to evaporate faster. ((Monte03 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/121601-for-tillotson-lovers-the-aftermarket-tickler/page6?t=1191289&page=6)) \\
 +By 'tickling' the diaphragm via paperclip or spring type pin, you are allowing fuel to enter the accelerator galley via gravity. \\
 +Now when you twist the throttle you will get a clean shot of fuel into the intake. \\
 +
 +The Tillotson carburetor runs great, once started. \\ But even with electric start, when cold, it sometimes takes quite a bit of cranking to get it going. ((rgmax of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/121601-for-tillotson-lovers-the-aftermarket-tickler/page5?t=1191289&page=5)) \\
 +Sometimes sometimes twenty kicks later, no start. When warm it sometimes takes 3-4 seconds of cranking to start which still seemed too long. \\
 +(even with the carb rebuilt, timing, plugs and valve adjustment all spot on) \\
 +The one interesting symptom when trying to start it is that there is usually no sound of the cylinders actually trying to fire. \\
 +Its almost as if it's not getting fuel. \\
 +
 +The Tillotson is unusual in that it does not have a conventional float bowl or even a float, but a fuel chamber. \\
 +It has a diaphragm that uses engine vacuum which opens the needle valve to allow fuel to flow into the carb. \\
 +This seems to be the genesis of the problem. \\
 +No or not enough fuel in the fuel chamber and not enough vacuum generated during cranking to allow fuel to flow into the carb. \\
 +The diaphragm in the V-twin kits may be less flexible than the original, contributing to this problem. \\
 +
 +There is an old trick of using a paperclip to depress the diaphragm through a small hole in the diaphragm cover on the bottom of the carb. \\
 +Starting will improve significantly. \\
 +Using the paperclip method can be cumbersome with the fuel line, original air cleaner, circuit breaker and tach cable in the way. \\
 +
 +This was made by S&D installed on a HD2D model. \\
 +{{:techtalk:ih:carb:tillotson_hd2d_pic_3_by_16ouncepbr.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by 16ouncePBR of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/121601-for-tillotson-lovers-the-aftermarket-tickler?t=1191289)) {{:techtalk:ih:carb:tillotson_hd2d_pic_4_by_16ouncepbr.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by 16ouncePBR of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/121601-for-tillotson-lovers-the-aftermarket-tickler?t=1191289)) \\
 +
 +{{:techtalk:ih:carb:tillotson_hd2d_pic_1_by_16ouncepbr.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by 16ouncePBR of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/121601-for-tillotson-lovers-the-aftermarket-tickler?t=1191289)) {{:techtalk:ih:carb:tillotson_hd2d_pic_2_by_16ouncepbr.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by 16ouncePBR of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/121601-for-tillotson-lovers-the-aftermarket-tickler?t=1191289)) \\
 +
 +Since vintage ticklers are now pretty much unobtainable, the one below was homemade.\\
 +This is an original Tillotson on a 1969 XLH. \\
 +{{:techtalk:ih:carb:homemade_tickler_by_rgmax.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by rgmax of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/121601-for-tillotson-lovers-the-aftermarket-tickler/page5?t=1191289&page=5)) \\
  
 ===== Testing and Repair Checklist ===== ===== Testing and Repair Checklist =====
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     - Inspect the inlet needle lever for correct adjustment. It should be flush with the surrounding floor of the carb body. If not equipped with a shackled needle, replace with kit (27588-66). Torque seat to 45 in-lbs.      - Inspect the inlet needle lever for correct adjustment. It should be flush with the surrounding floor of the carb body. If not equipped with a shackled needle, replace with kit (27588-66). Torque seat to 45 in-lbs. 
     - Test the economizer ball check for leakage and correct operation. Using the hose end of tool (96960-68), place it over the economizer welch plug hole so that it seals off the sur­rounding area. With alternate pressure and vacuum applied by mouth, ball check should release and seal. Replace any defective parts. \\      - Test the economizer ball check for leakage and correct operation. Using the hose end of tool (96960-68), place it over the economizer welch plug hole so that it seals off the sur­rounding area. With alternate pressure and vacuum applied by mouth, ball check should release and seal. Replace any defective parts. \\ 
- 
----- 
- 
-\\ 
  
 ===== Welch Plug or Expansion Plug ===== ===== Welch Plug or Expansion Plug =====
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     * The plug should be seated  with a flat end punch that is slightly smaller than the diameter of the plug. The plug should be flat and not concaved to assure a tight fit. If leakage is suspected due to a rough or damaged welch plug seat in the casting, apply a small amount of epoxy or suitable sealant to the edges after installing it.      * The plug should be seated  with a flat end punch that is slightly smaller than the diameter of the plug. The plug should be flat and not concaved to assure a tight fit. If leakage is suspected due to a rough or damaged welch plug seat in the casting, apply a small amount of epoxy or suitable sealant to the edges after installing it. 
     * Installation Recommendations from Hubbard Spring [[http://www.hubbardspring.com/install_reco.php?cid=45]]     * Installation Recommendations from Hubbard Spring [[http://www.hubbardspring.com/install_reco.php?cid=45]]
-  * Some Welch Plug dims: [[http://www.hubbardspring.com/index.php/category/43/cupped-plugs-and-cupped-plugs-pierced-catalog +  * Some Welch Plug dims: [[http://www.hubbardspring.com/index.php/category/43/cupped-plugs-and-cupped-plugs-pierced-catalog]]
-]]+
  
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-====== IH: Carburetor, Intake Manifold & Exhaust Systems - Sub-02A======+
 ===== Intake Leaks ===== ===== Intake Leaks =====
 Finding and Fixing the Cause of the Degradation That Leads to Intake Leaks: \\ Finding and Fixing the Cause of the Degradation That Leads to Intake Leaks: \\
-Article by Dr Dick of the XLFORUM ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=3203642)) \\+Article by Dr Dick of the XLFORUM ((https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/113554-intake-manifold-leak-plague/page2#post2390770)) \\
  
   * Leaks will develop over time. While diagnosing, you're doing the seemingly most logical thing by focusing on the seals & clamps. But, you may not be seeing the obvious. If your tire kept leaking after you fixed the inner tube, time after time, you would start thinking that a bigger patch would work better than the last one you used as well as start looking for nails in the drive way. Same thing here.   * Leaks will develop over time. While diagnosing, you're doing the seemingly most logical thing by focusing on the seals & clamps. But, you may not be seeing the obvious. If your tire kept leaking after you fixed the inner tube, time after time, you would start thinking that a bigger patch would work better than the last one you used as well as start looking for nails in the drive way. Same thing here.
Line 71: Line 100:
     * The correct action is leaving a gap of .030' -.060" (1/32"-1/16") between the head and manifold at the skinny lip. This gap needs to be even all around on both heads at the same time. It's in this little gap that the O-ring seals when the clamp squeezes it. When setting heads & jugs for alignment, putting manifold & O-rings (but no clamps) in place, the inside of the manifold should match the inside of the intake port all by itself with no forcing. Don't worry if the gap seems to big. It will shrink when the heads & jugs get tightened. The last test is, when the clamps get tightened, the alignment is still on before you tighten the clamps. You will note that the O-rings are proud of the spigot diameters. When the clamps squeeze the  O-rings to the spigot diameter, the seal to gap occurs. During tightening, you may have to tap the manifold back into alignment until the clamps grab onto the spigots.     * The correct action is leaving a gap of .030' -.060" (1/32"-1/16") between the head and manifold at the skinny lip. This gap needs to be even all around on both heads at the same time. It's in this little gap that the O-ring seals when the clamp squeezes it. When setting heads & jugs for alignment, putting manifold & O-rings (but no clamps) in place, the inside of the manifold should match the inside of the intake port all by itself with no forcing. Don't worry if the gap seems to big. It will shrink when the heads & jugs get tightened. The last test is, when the clamps get tightened, the alignment is still on before you tighten the clamps. You will note that the O-rings are proud of the spigot diameters. When the clamps squeeze the  O-rings to the spigot diameter, the seal to gap occurs. During tightening, you may have to tap the manifold back into alignment until the clamps grab onto the spigots.
  
 +===== Links,Parts and Services for Tillotson Carbs =====
 +Original P/N for a Sporty Tillotson repair parts kit 27147-66 ((rivethog of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/92522-another-tillotson-magneto-hard-to-start-xlch-question/page2?t=757993&page=2)) \\
 +Original P/N for a Big Twin Tillotson repai parts kit 27137-66 \\
 +
 +  * Parts list for Tillotson HD carbs:
 +      * [[http://tillotson.ie/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/HD-Series-1-Parts-List.pdf|HD Series 1 Parts List (PDF)]]
 +      * [[http://tillotson.ie/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/HD-Series-2-Parts-List.pdf|HD Series 2 Parts List (PDF)]]
 +  * Service manual for Tillotson carbs:
 +      * [[http://tillotson.ie/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Tillotson-HD-Series-Carburetor.pdf|Tillotson HD Series Carburetor (PDF)]]
 +  * Servicing for Tillotson carbs:
 +      * [[http://tillotson.ie/market/vintage/?filters=product_cat[repair-kits-parts]|Tillotson Company]].
 +      * [[https://www.eccarburetors.com/|EC Carburetors]]. 
 +      * [[http://thecarburetorshop.com/|The Carburetor Shop]].
 +
 +
 +|{{techtalk:ih:carb:tillotson_carb_repair_kit_by_the_doctor71_of_the_xlforum.jpg?direct&300|}}|
 +|Tillotson Carburetor repair/ refresh kit((Pic courtesy of The Doctor71 of the XLFORUM))|
 +
 +
 +----
  
 \\ \\

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