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====== REF: Tools - 148 ====== | ====== REF: Tools - 148 ====== | ||
- | ====== Cylinder Leak-Down Tester ====== | + | ====== Cylinder Leak-Down and Compression Testers ====== |
+ | ====== Leak Down Tester ====== | ||
- | ====== When to Perform | + | See also [[techtalk: |
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- | * A good way to keep track of the progression in engine diagnostics is to take this pressure reading when the engine is healthy. \\ Then, when you take it later as the engine life is used up, you would notice a lower pressure on the second gauge, indicating an increase in leakage. ((SHIPCHIEF of the XLFORUM http:// | + | |
- | * When you notice the engine performance dropping off. | + | |
- | * After taking a cylinder compression test showing low compression. | + | |
- | + | ||
- | ====== Using a Differential Pressure Gauge ====== | + | |
This is basically a flow meter showing the differential pressure between the two gauges. \\ | This is basically a flow meter showing the differential pressure between the two gauges. \\ | ||
- | Simply put, the left gauge measures incoming pressure from the air tank and the right gauge measures the pressure lost thru leakage in the cylinder. | + | Simply put, the left gauge measures incoming pressure from the air tank and the right gauge measures the pressure lost thru leakage in the cylinder. \\ |
+ | Some have dual psi gauges for which you can induce a dedicated 100 psi of air into the system which makes deducing percentage easy. \\ | ||
+ | Others will have a percentage based gauge on the right (with a lighter calibration) using a pre-determined amount of air via the regulator. | ||
- | * When using the differential pressure gauge set, ((SHIPCHIEF of the XLFORUM | + | * When using the differential pressure gauge set, ((SHIPCHIEF of the XLFORUM |
* The first gauge shows the regulated pressure. | * The first gauge shows the regulated pressure. | ||
* Then, the air passes thru an orifice (a smaller hole inline between the two gauges to restrict the flow between them) to the second gauge. | * Then, the air passes thru an orifice (a smaller hole inline between the two gauges to restrict the flow between them) to the second gauge. | ||
* The air then leaves the second gauge to the cylinder via the spark plug adapter. | * The air then leaves the second gauge to the cylinder via the spark plug adapter. | ||
* This pressure (end to end) would ideally be the same if there is no cylinder, valve or head gasket leakage. | * This pressure (end to end) would ideally be the same if there is no cylinder, valve or head gasket leakage. | ||
- | ===== Setting up the Gauge ===== | ||
+ | This test will also tell you what to look for at the top end of a tear down: worn exhaust valves, worn intake valves, leaky head gaskets, or worn rings. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM https:// | ||
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+ | | ||
+ | - Hunt down the source | ||
- | |{{: | ||
- | * **Slowly, turn the regulator valve to the right to increase the pressure thru the tool**. | + | |{{: |
- | | + | ^ Commercially available leak down tester |
- | |{{: | + | |{{: |
+ | ^ Homemade Leak-Down Tester ((photo by cjburr of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/ | ||
- | * **Install | + | ====== Compression Tester ====== |
+ | {{techtalk: | ||
+ | ====== Spark Plug Hole Adapters for an Air Hose ====== | ||
+ | These are used in place of the spark plug to hook up diagnostic tools (compression tester, leak-down tester etc.). \\ They can also be used to adapt a 14mm TDC whistle or piston stop to a Sporty engine. | ||
- | **Now, your ready to start the test**. | + | ===== Commercially available ===== |
+ | | ||
+ | | ||
+ | * If you, by chance, have bought a ' | ||
- | ===== Test the Cylinder | + | |A few adapters including a tall one (which is great for some V-8' |
+ | |{{: | ||
+ | ^ Spark Plug Hole Thread Adapters ((photos by Hippysmack)) | ||
- | | + | ===== Homemade ===== |
+ | An old spark plug with the ceramic removed can be used to make an adapter for air hose fittings. \\ | ||
+ | Ceramic is too hard to drill and it's easier to just break it off flush with the metal and cut the compression lip off the plug. \\ | ||
+ | With the plug hollowed out, an air hose nipple can then be welded brazed, threaded | ||
- | | + | **Welded**: \\ |
- | * **Attach | + | |{{: |
+ | ^Homemade air nipple welded into the plug. ((photo by FearlessFrisbee of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/ | ||
- | |{{:techtalk: | + | **Brazed**: \\ |
- | * **Now increase the pressure**. Turn the regulator valve up to get the pressure on the left gauge back to the same point as before it was attached to the engine side hose. \\ (in this case, near 1 bar) | + | This adapter was made using the same concept of removing |
- | | + | |{{: |
+ | ^ Homemade Hose Coupling ((photo by Screw Loose Dan of the XLFORUM https:// | ||
- | |Before testing|After testing| | + | \\ |
- | |{{: | + | |
- | | This test was done on a 1250 engine with less than 1,000 miles || | + | |
- | ===== Interpreting | + | **Threaded**: |
- | ===== Hunting Down the Source | + | This is a homemade adapter (1/4" NPT to 12mm) that's relatively simple to make if you are having trouble finding |
+ | |A used spark plug is already threaded for the plug hole. You can grind the electrode off and remove the \\ insulator. Then thread the internal hole for the threads you'll be needing from your hose / apparatus ((photos by cjburr | ||
+ | |{{: | ||
- | A mechanics stethoscope [with the probe removed for this test] makes a good listening device, as does a length of oil / gas line hose. \\ | ||
- | There will always be some audible leakage, especially past the rings and even on a healthy engine. \\ | ||
- | Greater leakage results in a sound of lower pitch. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http:// | ||
+ | You'll need to tap threads into the gutted out portion of the plug. In order to get good threads in the plug body you need a bottoming tap (no taper). \\ | ||
+ | Or, you will have to grind down a 1/4" NPT tapered tap and make it shorter until it is able to go deep enough into the plug body to cut threads in the sides. | ||
+ | |Break the porcelain off with a hammer (eye protection required). Take a small screwdriver and break up the porcelain under the crimp (portion that holds the \\ porcelain in the plug body ), this will let you grind the crimp only and the job will go faster as the porcelain is harder to grind. Then pull the rest of it out. \\ You now have to tap threads in the gutted area for 1/4" NPT (national pipe thread)in the plug body and you are ready to go. ((photos by cjburr of the XLFORUM https:// | ||
+ | |{{: | ||
+ | ^ Homemade 1/4" NPT to 12mm Spark Plug Hole Adapter | ||
+ | \\ | ||
- | * **Listen at the exhaust pipe or exhaust port on the head**. | ||
- | * Excessive hissing here indicates the respective exhaust valve is not sealing. | ||
- | * **Listen at the A/C intake or intake port of the head**. | ||
- | * Excessive hissing here indicates that the intake valve is not sealing. | ||
- | * **Listen at the timing plug hole with the plug removed**. | ||
- | * Excessive hissing here indicates the rings are not sealing. | ||
- | * **Listen around the cylinder to head connection**. | ||
- | * Excessive hissing here indicates the respective head gasket is not sealing. | ||
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