• Rebuilding the Kidney Tank Oil Cap

There have been negative comments about in-tank oil filters in the past, but these all refer to an old, original “horse hair” filter. ¹⁾
The modern replacements are very good indeed.
But you'll need to shorten your dipstick to use the newer in-tank filters unless you find a “Horsehair” type. ²⁾
The newer pleated paper ones are a better choice though.
See the example below of shortening the dipstick.

Uncut dipstick. 3)	After cutting. 4)	Roll pin goes thru the “top” (smaller) hole. 5)

• Pics of 1958-1965 XLCH "Horseshoe" Oil Tanks
• Pics of 1966-1978 XLCH Oil Tanks
• Pics of 1979-1981 Sportster Oil Tanks
• Pics of 1982-1985 Sportster Oil Tanks

Tank Assembly per Year Model:

Year	Model	Tank Part #	Oil Cap
1957-E1962	XL,XLH	62507-56A	62610-52
Notes:
1958-1961 1962 1963-1965	XLC, XLCH	62503-52 62503-52A 62503-52B	62626-54 62625-62
Notes:	Screw-in filler cap. Cap 62626-54 has no dipstick, 62625-62 and future caps have a dipstick.
L1962-1963 1964	XLH	62507-62 62507-62A 62507-62B	62610-52
Notes:	Tank 62507-62B (sold for L62-66 since 1969).
1965-1966	XLH	62507-62B	62610-52 62610-52A
Notes:	Filler cap 62610-52 (E66), cap 62610-52A (L66).
1966-1969	XLCH	62508-66	62625-62 62625-66A
Notes:	Filler cap 62625-62 (66), cap 62625-66A (67) (both screw-in caps). Drain plug (704) in on the left side of the bike. Oil filler hole is on the front side of the tank.
1967-1971	XLH	62507-67	62610-52A
Notes:
1970-E1973	XLCH	62508-70	62625-70
Notes:	62508-70 “lunchbox” tank. Drain plug (704) is on the right side at the bottom of the tank. Oil filler hole is on the rear side of the tank.
1972 1973-1978	XLH	62507-72 62507-67A	62610-52A
Notes:
L1973-1978	XLCH	62508-73	62625-70
Notes:
1979	XL, XLS, XLCH	62449-79	62599-79
Notes:	Triangle shaped side, battery box built into it. Drain plug (704) on (R) bottom of tank. Non-painted tank not sold for parts order (no part# until 1981).
1980-1981	XL, XLS	62587-80	62625-80 62635-79
Notes:	Triangle shaped side, battery box built into it. Drain plug (704) on (R) side of tank at the bottom. Non-painted tank not sold for parts order (no part# until 1981). Dipstick 62635-79 with oil temp gauge. Label on cap (62481-80) ie, “Power Blend” etc.
1982	XL, XLS	62475-81A	62595-82 62595-82A
Notes:	Battery box no longer built to tank. Tank now with rubber mount fasteners. Drain plug (706) on the bottom.
1983-1985	XL, XLS	62475-83	62595-82A
Notes:	Drain plug (706) in 83 and (706A) in 84 on the bottom.

• Routing Oil Lines with an Oil Cooler
• Running Copper Oil Lines

The OD of the oil & vent lines is as important as the ID. ⁶⁾
If you buy automotive lines that are larger OD, they will be difficult to run in the limited space and easy to kink.

Feed and Return: 3/8“ ID X 5/8” OD reinforced rubber was introduced in 1969.
Vent: 1/4“ ID, 1/2” OD reinforced rubber also introduced in 1969.
The tank is vented to the cam chest because it applies a slightly negative pressure to the tank. ⁷⁾
This promotes the evacuation of condensate from the tank and keeps the tank from being pressurized (by the air that is also returned by the scavenge pump).
General oil line routing on AMF Sportsters:
The vent and the return lines route under the starter and solenoid. (can't run over them since the exhaust is there) ⁸⁾
Use care under the starter as to not kink or flatten the lines (rubber or copper) ⁹⁾
Feed line runs out the bottom of the oil tank, close to the chain, around the swing arm and under.
The filter and cooler are (plumbed) in the return line. ¹⁰⁾

• 1957-1966 XLH and 1958-1969 XLCH:
  • Oil feed from the tank is on the top of the case behind the rear cylinder (rear fitting).
  • Oil return to the tank is on the top of the case behind the rear cylinder (front fitting).
  • Vent line from the oil tank is on the top of the case behind the rear cylinder (lowest and smallest, 1/4“ hose fitting).
  • The primary / transmission vents thru the motor internally via the oil transfer valve.
• 1967-1976 XLH and 1970-1976 XLCH:
  • Oil feed from the tank is on the rear of the oil pump (3/8” hose fitting).
  • Oil return to the tank is on the top of the case behind the rear cylinder (3/8“ hose fitting).
  • Vent line from the oil tank is on the rear of the cam cover (1/4” hose 90° fitting).
  • The primary / transmission vents thru the motor internally via the oil transfer valve.
• 1977-1985 (all models):
  • Oil feed from the tank is on the lower rear of the oil pump (3/8“ hose fitting).
  • Oil return to the tank is on the upper front of the oil pump (3/8” hose fitting).
  • Vent line from the oil tank is on the rear of the cam cover (1/4“ hose 90° fitting).
  • The primary / transmission is vented to atmosphere from the top of the transmission near the rear motor mount just in front of the solenoid (1/4” hose fitting).
    • 77-80: The hose should run straight up and then loop back down (without kinks).
    • 81-85: The vent hose should run from under the starter up and OVER the oil lines and then back down (without kinks).

Simplified Oil Line Routing Drawings: ¹¹⁾
Click on a drawing to enlarge:

There is a steel bracket that holds the oil line in position. ¹²⁾
It mounts onto one of the rear engine mount or case bolts and keeps the line away from the chain.
The bracket is a piece of .060“ sheet metal about 3/4” wide and maybe 3“ long with a hole in one end where the bolt passes through it.
The other end is bent in a half circle that fits over the oil line and holds it against the frame / engine.

Feed line behind the chain on 73 XLCH 13)	Missing clamp allows the chain to rub the hose. 14)	A steel line was used to replace the rubber hose. 15)

77-85:
The oil return comes off the front of the oil pump, not the top of the case like earlier years.
Essentially you have the following lines: ¹⁶⁾
Feed: From the bottom of the oil tank to the rear fitting (inlet) on the oil pump.
Return: From the top of the oil tank to the front oil pump fitting close to the pressure switch.
(perhaps after going through a cooler)
Vent: From the top of the oil tank to the 1/4” hose nipple on the upper backside of the cam cover in front of the sprocket.

Oil Lines on 77 XLCH. 17)

• 1957-E1961 XLH
  • Feed Line: Rubber hose with compression fittings on both ends.
    • 63517-54 Rubber hose (oil suction line)'
    • 63533-52 NPT to rubber hose fitting.
    • 63529-52 Brass compression sleeve (both ends).
    • 63527-52 Compression nut (both ends).
    • 63539-54 Compression to Rubber Hose 45° Elbow.
  • Return Line: Steel tubing, bare ended, with rubber seal compression fittings on both ends.
    • 63507-56A Pre-bent steel tubing.
    • 63525-50 NPT to tube connector fitting (both ends).
    • 63529-50 Rubber compression sleeve (both ends).
    • 63527-50 Oil line nut (both ends).
  • Oil Tank Vent Line: Steel tubing, bare ended, with seal compression fittings on both ends.
    • 63570-56 Pre-bent steel tubing.
    • 63526-57 Vent line connector (both ends).
    • 62360-50 Rubber compression sleeve (both ends).
    • 62361-50 Oil line nut.

• 1958- XLCH:
  • Feed Line:
    • 62356-53 3/8“ Rubber hose.
    • 63540-53 3/8” Hose bibb 45° elbow at the engine. (1958-E1962)
    • 62696-62 3/8“ Hose bibb 90° elbow at the engine. (L1962-1965)
  • Return Line:
    • 62356-53 3/8” Rubber hose.
    • 63540-52 3/8“ Hose bibb 45° elbow at the engine. (1958-E1962)
    • 63540-62 3/8” Hose bibb 90° elbow at the engine. (L1962-1965|
    • 63540-66 1/8“ NPT (M-FM) 90° elbow at the engine. (1966-1969)
  • Vent Line:
    • 63578-41 Banjo fitting assembly at the oil tank.

There are generally 4 holes on all early style oil tanks. ¹⁸⁾
Two near the bottom of the tank and two near the top.
The feed line will be near the bottom and the return line near the top.
These two lines will be bigger than the other two.
The smaller line at the bottom is the chain oiler (often not used and blocked off or just turned off).
The smaller line at the top is the vent for the tank.
(on early engines it runs to the top of the case just behind the rear cylinder)
There are internal drilling to route the vent into the cam chest (which vents to atmosphere).
On later engines it runs down to the cam cover which has a 90° fitting to accommodate it.

^{19) 20)}

The 66-69 lunch box tanks have the vent and return lines on the top of the tank (and feed on the bottom).
^{21) 22) 23)}

The 70s “lunchbox” tanks have (3) 1/8” NPT fittings all on the bottom of tank. The lone fitting rear of the center flange is the feed (straight 3/8“ hose barb).
There are two fittings forward of the flange. The one on left (primary) side of the tank is the return and also uses a straight 3/8” hose barb.
The one on the right (cam side) is the tank vent uses a 90° hose barb fitting for a 1/4“ hose. ²⁴⁾

Both the return line connection and the vent line connections in the oil tank both have identical stand pipes inside the tank.
You cannot see or reach these through the filler cap. ²⁵⁾
Generic 70s XLCH oil tank sketch . ²⁶⁾

L1973-1978 tanks have the feed on the rear near the bottom, the return on the top nipple at the cap and the vent is on the rear just down from the top.
²⁷⁾

There were two tanks used (79 and 80-81) and both of them connect to the engine the same way.
²⁸⁾

Click Here to reference “Remote Oil Filters” in the REF section of the Sportsterpedia for plumbing, connections and custom applications.

The oil filter (HD 63782-80T) is the small one that is usually used on custom bikes. Chrome or black can be found. ²⁹⁾

On all spin on oil filters, dirty oil goes in the outside of the filter. Clean oil comes out the center. ³⁰⁾
If you are not sure, start the motor momentarily with the filter off and if oil is pumped out the center port, you have it backwards.

1979 Sportsters didn't initially come stock with an oil filter at all. The MoCo offered an oil filter kit for it.

Oil line connections on a 61 XLCH 31) Fittings (L) Return, (R) Feed, (hole) Vent	Oil line connections on a 67 XLCH 32) 1- Return to tank, 2- Feed to motor, 3- Vent hose 33)

Oil lines on a 71 XLH w/ custom mounted oil tank bungs 34)	Oil lines on a 72 XLCH (no filter) 35)

Oil lines on a 74 XLH 36)	Oil fittings on a 75 custom 37)	Oil lines on a 75 XLH 38)

This pic of a 74 model shows the chain oiler fitting (circled in green) which is usually just plugged off. ³⁹⁾
The one circled in red is the vent return to the tank.

Oil fittings on a 74 model 40)

See External Oil Coolers in the REF section of the Sportsterpedia.

Installation:
The ends are slightly different sizes. ⁴¹⁾
The larger-sized ends go on the case and the smaller-diameter ones go to the rockers.
In other words the closer they are to the oil pump, the bigger they should be.
Most people never even notice this.
Issues getting oil to the top end:
If your pump is primed, and the breather gear is properly timed, then the problem lies in the lines and/or their fittings.

If you have a leak here, you may not have to replace any parts.
Try to uninstall them, clean, inspect and reinstall them and see what happens.
Note for reinstalling the metal oil lines; ⁴²⁾
The line is just long enough to be inserted a small amount at each end at the fittings.
So insert at the top, then the bottom ensuring that it is more or less even from top and bottom.

You can install the rubbers an inch or more from the line ends.
Then, while keeping it from shifting, slide the rubbers into place.

Then slip each line-end in place, and hold it there while sliding the rubbers into final position.
Tightening the nuts will seat the rubbers. Light grease on the rubbers will help.
Tighten them alternately, again keeping it from shifting.

Keep an eye on which style you buy (if any need replaced). ⁴³⁾
The OEM is barrel shaped.
Some aftermarkets are a barrel with 45° cuts on the top and bottom.
The 45° ones are no good.
Either a different polymer is used or you really need that full barrel shape to seal the oil line properly.

Rocker oil line 44)

Braided lines can flex, leak, and sometimes flatten out. ⁴⁵⁾
Before you try threading any threads into your engine, try threading them on a pipe fitting first. ⁴⁶⁾

If the new parts are chromed then you should (must) wire wheel (with light pressure) the chromed threads before installation. ⁴⁷⁾
This is especially important for chromed threaded bolts or bolts that have old Loctite on them.
* Always wear a face mask as you can loose hold of the bolt (using a wire wheel on a bench grinder) it will go flying.
You can lightly clamp the fastener flats in a vise and use a Dremil or angle grinder wire wheel also.
Either way, a mist of metal will get airborne and you don't need that getting into your eyes.

You can also chase the new threads with a die. This will also remove extra bulk on the threads due to the chroming process.
See also Chasing Threads in the REF section of the Sportsterpedia.

These were made with flared fittings and are a positive seat fitting.
They do not allow for any growth once the motor gets hot (if that's a concern). ⁴⁸⁾
The OEM style tubing uses slip compression type fittings which will allow expansion.
However, the flared fittings have been used on Sportsters.

Click on a pic to enlarge:

Stainless steel tubing will polish up like chrome and does not rust.
You can also use Parker stainless steel fittings and 1/4” tubing. ^{52) 53)}

They will come with compression fittings, DO NOT USE!!!!
On the bottom fitting.
On the upper fitting, drill the 1/4“ hole to allow the tube to slide up into the rocker box.
There will still be a slight taper left.
This will allow you to insert the tube into the rocker box and then down into the bottom fitting stop.
You can cut pieces of fuel line hose to make the seal rings as it will resist the oil and heat.
You can use O-rings here if you have them also.

Stainless steel oil lines 54)