The EZ-Just mixture screw (for L76-87 or 88-06 models) ¹⁾ ) can be purchased with an extended screw head for hand tuning.
It comes with the “packing” in case yours has been damaged or is not functioning properly.
But, check your local regulations before changing this out to an aftermarket part.
You can also find, buy or barter for used parts.
(“Please note: it is a violation of federal law to tamper with or disable any emission or noise control device. That is your PSA for the day”). ²⁾

^{5) 6) 7)}

Several mods to the thumbscrew have been done to make counting turns while turning the screw easier.

The aftermarket thumb screw head doesn't a slot for a screwdriver (which also serves as a visual for position). A small hole drilled off center will give a visual position of the screw for adjustment later. 8)

This replacement needle makes it so much easier to adjust the idle mixture. ⁹⁾
However, it is easier to count the turns by hand with this mod.
A spigot was added to the face of the knob.
The needle was screwed in all the way to gentle seat.
Then the side nearest the air cleaner (right of bike) was marked to index when to stop turning to the right.
The needle was then removed, drilled and tapped (10 BA) for the spigot.
You can also drill hole through the knob from side to side and Superglue a screw in it. ¹⁰⁾

The EZ-Just makes it easy to adjust the idle mixture by hand without a screwdriver.
But, if you've gone 3 to 3-1/2 turns out, then change to the next biggest slow jet. ¹¹⁾

Spigot installed to count the turns. 12)

This was done to extend the factory idle mixture screw.
A piece of 3/16“ brass tubing and a knurled nut from the hardware store.

Factory idle mixture screw extended. 13)

The factory fuel elbow found on Keihin carburetors has been prone to cracking and leaking.
The carb below is a Keihin CV from a 98 S model but the process for replacing the elbow is the same for all Keihin carbs.
Also the manner in which the plastic elbow is formed onto a brass insert restricts flow.
It's made of a combination of molded plastic on the outside with a brass nipple installed on the inside of the carb.
The plastic attached to the brass nipple can crack or break off when removing the original crimp clamp or if over tightened.
Stress can also break it while removing / installing the carb if the attached hose gets caught on something and pulled.
Replacing the factory elbow with a brass one can increase gas flow (especially with a vacuum-less petcock).

Factory plastic fuel inlet elbow. 14)

• 1/4”x20 tap
• Tap handle
• (2)-7/16“ wrenches
• 1/4”x20 bolt w nut and washer
• Spacer (or a socket can be used instead)
• Hammer
• Bench vise with soft jaws (can be optional but handy)

¹⁵⁾

• Brass 90° elbow

You need an elbow designed for this application for best results.
The MoCo may still sell both an OEM and brass inlet that can be pressed in (arbor press or large vise).
Some catalogs carry an OEM replacement inlet but it has the same plastic elbow (not recommended).
While others sell a brass inlet made from a 2-piece design (also not recommended).
CV Performance sells a solid elbow and a hose clamp as a kit.
You can also buy a kit on the internet / Ebay that includes the tap, bolt and spacer setup along with a solid elbow.
Or check your local Harley Dealership for a replacement elbow.

CV Performance elbow 16)	Aftermarket kit off Ebay. 17)

There are differences in these two elbows and those differences can be a factor in how it is installed.
However, either will work fine. Below are some considerations when installing.
The CV Performance elbow has a shorter end going into the carb than the other one. It's also tapered.
This allows you to set the elbow horizontally into the carb without a tilt and get a loose fit to adjust the direction before pressing it in.
The other elbow is more consistent with the original length, not tapered and will provide more holding area through the entire shaft.
But it will sit in the hole at a tilt until it is pressed in somewhat so the angle needs to set before you install it too far in the hole.
The CVP elbow has a flat at the bend for ease installing it in a bench vise although with the taper, it is relatively easy to tap in place with a wrench or hammer.

It's a fairly simple job to replace the fuel inlet.
Instructions are also here at the CVP website: https://cv-performance.com/harley-fuel-elbow-replacement

Notes:
While working on the carburetor or any fuel system, care should be taken to keep away from any open flame or heat source.
Never try to loosen carburetor parts using heat.
Do not use brute force or methods other than a puller.
D0 not remove the inlet from the carb using a drill or vise grips.
This could damage the body or distort, crack or broaden the hole where the new inlet presses into.
Follow all safety precautions.
The following instructions are provided as a basic guide and assumes no liability for any damages or injury.
Never work on a carburetor or related fuel system in the presence of an open flame or heat source.

Prep:
The cover doesn't necessarily have to be removed, but it's best to be able to blow out the passage with it off.
Be sure to first mark or note the position/angle of the factory elbow before removing it.
The replacement elbow should installed in the same direction to keep your original fuel hose routing.
In order to remove the original fuel inlet you must first break off the plastic molded elbow.
Don't be shy, get out your favorite hammer or pliers and simply snap the plastic portion off of the carb.
It is important to first note the angle/position of the original elbow so the fuel line is routed correctly when reinstalling a new elbow.
You'll be using a hammer to break off the plastic elbow so make sure to cover the carb to keep out any debris generated.

Mark or note factory elbow position. 18)	Cover the carb to keep out debris. 19)

CAUTION:
Never heat a carburetor to remove or loosen parts.

Holding the carb in your hand with the plastic fitting on a bench / table won't jolt the body / insides as much.
Using a hammer, strike the upper part of the 90° elbow past the 90° joint (nothing but plastic here).
The plastic may break off in various ways, thus the plastic bag over the carb was used here. ²⁰⁾

Once the end is broken, you can try peeling the plastic off the brass nipple to expose the end. ²¹⁾

Assemble the 1/4“-20 tap, tap handle and lube the tap. The I.D. of the nipple is already sufficient to accept the tap.
(no drilling required)
Insert the tap into the nipple and begin threading it clockwise turning in approximately 1/4”.
Tapping threads all the way through is not necessary as you only need enough for the bolt to grab while pulling the nipple out.
To prevent excess brass particles from falling back into the carburetor with the bowl on;
It is advisable to hold the carb with the inlet piece facing down so that particles fall away rather than being pushed into the bowl.
This is not necessary with the bowl off as you can blow the passage out from the inside.

Remove all brass cuttings / particles after tapping and before continuing.
²²⁾

Assemble the puller:
Place the spacer (or deep socket) over the brass nipple.
Thread the nut onto the bolt up to the screw head then add the washer.
Insert this assembly through the spacer and thread the bolt a few turns into the tapped brass piece.
You only need a few threads in to grab.
With a wrench begin to turn the nut down (clockwise) forcing the screw to lift the brass piece out.
It may be easier to hold the bolt with one wrench and turn the nut with another.
Once the piece begins to move it will pull out like butter. ²³⁾
Once the nipple is out, you may have to 'pop' the spacer of as it may wedge against the carb.

A socket may be used as a spacer with the appropriate length bolt.
²⁴⁾

Thoroughly clean the fuel insert passage to make sure it is free of any brass filings.
Soapy water will wash away any fine particles and not harm the internal parts.
Compressed air will also blow out the passage.
Be sure the carburetor is clean and dry.
²⁵⁾

Installing the new fuel elbow will vary depending upon brand or type of elbow used.
Position the inlet elbow in the same direction as the original so that the hose can be routed correctly.
If installing a solid brass or CVP inlet and a press is not available, simply tap the inlet into the carburetor with a small mallet.
You may also place a piece of wood over the elbow and tap in with a regular hammer.
The smooth end presses into the carb and the barbed end is meant to grip the fuel hose.
If you're to tap the elbow in, hold the carb in one hand and tap with the other.
This will take the blow off the carb body and internals.

Double check alignment before installing. 26)	Tap the elbow in with a hammer. 27)	Or pull it in with a vise with soft jaws. 28)

The brass inlet will self-seal when pressed in as long as the carb inlet passage hole is free of debris and not damaged, stretched, or cracked.
A thin layer of blue locktite may be applied around the fitting to help seal.
But care should be taken not to allow any to drip back into the fuel passage as it will damage the rubber tip on the float needle (plunger). ²⁹⁾

Blow the passage out again to ensure of no debris before installing the bowl. ³⁰⁾

This kit can be purchased online. It comes with an installation guide and index pointer.
The tool marks inside of the float bowl (as installed) for drilling the proper sized hole to thread in the adjustable main jet.
The kit can be purchased online.
PDF instructions - http://www.vtwinmfg.com/instructions/35/35-0369.pdf

This replaces the main jet (has to be removed).
The float bowl has to be removed to install the adjustable main jet.
A guide tool is included with the kit to install the new jet to properly index the carburetor float bowl.
A index pointer is installed in the guide, bowl reinstalled and the pointer is pushed down from inside the venture to dimple the bowl.
The bowl is once again removed and a 1/16“-1/8” pilot hole is drilled followed by a 15/64“ bit.
After checking for burrs, removing the index tool and guide and cleaning up, the adjustable jet is installed in the float bowl.
(partially unscrew the small 'T' handle so that the needle in the adjustable jet is not exposed to accidental damage)
Remove the nut from the adjustable jet, insert the jet through the 15/64” hole drilled earlier.
Then re-tighten the bowl and gently screw in the 'T' handle to the needle seat and then back it out 4 turns.
Finer tuning can be achieved by reading the spark plugs and small adjustments to the “T” handle.
This adjustable jet eliminates the chore of carrying and continually changing different main jets with every change in exhaust system or air cleaner.
The hole in the bowl for the 'T' handle jet has to be indexed correctly in order for this to work.
The adjustable main jet is designed to operate in conjunction with a 1.80 main jet included with the kit.
Make sure you record or remember the number of turns off the seat and back off the 'T' handle before removing the float bowl later.
This will help prevent needle / jet interference when the float bowl is reinstalled.
For initial adjustment (standard pipes and A/C) it's recommended that the adjustment needle be backed out four (4) turns from the seat. The adjustable jet set screw is turned in, towards the float bowl to lean the fuel/air mixture and out from the float bowl to richen the mixture.
Check plugs frequently after jet adjustment, exhaust or A/C to avoid too lean or too rich conditions.